We reach a grove of Casuarina trees after a steep hike over slippery red dirt. Casuarina trees look like long-needled pines but are ironwoods, trees with a reputation for strength and durability. The low-hanging braches that graze the ground add to the feeling of protection and shelter. But windows through the thin, knobby leaves lend a sense of playfulness. After a few minutes under this natural cover, we continue on, and up.

Haena State Park

We hiked the strenuous path that would take us to a hidden beach. The steady uphill climb left our shoes and ankles muddy and our legs aching, a thick, green canopy overhead and tropical brush on either side of us. Partway there, we reached an overlook that peered over a popular beach: paper clip-sized people, sea green water, and an impossibly large reef. The shouts and laughter were lost in the space between us, replaced by the chirps and scuffles of the forest. Sometimes life appears most beautiful when you are looking at it from a distance.

Ka'ena Point, Hawaii

Exploring the smoky-hued coastline at Ka'ena Point, I feel caught between two worlds. The day is over and night is ahead. The ocean spreads out to one side, and to the other is land—the beach, roads, and, further on, buildings. I step from jagged rock to spongy sand, through water, and around tide pools that crawl with creatures, the waves shush-shushing. Up ahead, a fisherman stares out to sea, uninterested in us, seemingly transfixed.

Kauai Cave

After a vigorous hike to a hidden beach, we find the perfect spot to rest and shake off the grainy sand that's stuck to our clothes and salty skin. I have just enough energy to wish we could explore the little watery cave. I imagine us on a wooden boat, leaving the bright shore behind and disappearing into a murky green world. The farther we oared, the darker and more primeval it would become. Instead, with one last look at the cave, I climb back into the car and we drive through sunlight and fresh air to our hotel.

Ornaments from Around the World

A fat, brown angel with paper-light wings and a crown of stars appears in the branches of a Christmas tree, bringing grandma-kisses all the way from Hawaii.

Tunnels Beach, Kauai

The first full day of our trip to Kauai, we woke up to miraculous sunshine, having driven through thick rain all the way from the airport the day before. We packed up and headed straight to Tunnels Beach for sunbathing, swimming, and snorkeling. I strode down the hot sand until reaching the water—the temperature of a warm bath—and then kept on walking. I slipped the goggles over my eyes and put my mouthpiece in and then, with a quick breath, I entered a breathtaking underwater world, opaque and emerald colored. Spindly reefs hiding whole colonies of sea creatures stretched out into the ocean and reached up toward the surface. I saw a sea turtle pass below me. Jewel-toned fish swam around me, scattering when I got too close—except for a bright blue and yellow one, who swam alongside me, inching closer and darting away, like some aquatic Pan.